“I want to take you higher …
BOOM laka-laka-laka BOOM laka-laka-laka.”
-
Sly and the Family Stone, “I Want to Take You
Higher” (video after post)
Unlike
our last trip to Yosemite, the hike my son and I took
last weekend wasn’t about anything particularly symbolic or epic. Instead, the whole point this time around was
simply to go higher – and perhaps to mimic the Family Stone and have a little
bit of fun in the process.
The idea was hatched shortly after starting our descent from
Half Dome last year, when I pointed out Clouds Rest on the nearby horizon and
told my son that it is usually recognized as the highest point in Yosemite
Valley.* It was an intriguing enough
notion – there’s someplace higher than Half Dome? – that hiking to Clouds Rest
shot to the top of his list for our next Yosemite adventure.
(*This distinction is sometimes debated, on the argument that
Clouds Rest isn’t really part of the Valley, but more properly belongs to the
High Sierra region to the north. You
can access it from both sides, but the
northern route we took is the shortest
and most common access point. Either
way, at 9930’, it’s definitely taller than the more iconic Half Dome by more
than 1000 feet.)
So the objective for the day was simple: this year, I wanted
to take my son higher – and with that, we’ll get to the report.
(As usual, click any photo to enlarge.)
In terms of pure elevation, our hike brought us higher than
Half Dome almost from the very beginning.
Our starting point was on the shore of Tenaya Lake at 8,150 feet – and
since it was just barely daybreak, it seemed fitting that the trailhead was
called Sunrise.
Before you set foot on the main trail, you cross an outlet
stream from the lake. Depending on the
time of year and the amount of snowfall the previous winter, this can sometimes
be a thigh-deep crossing; thanks to a light snow year, we didn’t have any
problem keeping our feet dry.
Once you’re on the official trail, it’s just over 7 miles to
the summit, making the entire hike a nearly 15-mile day. At first the distance comes easy …
… because the trail is generally flat and rolling for the
first mile and a half or so …
… before you start slowly gaining altitude on some early
switchbacks.
The elevation gain is hard to appreciate at first, until you
get brief glimpses of neighboring summits such as this one of Tuolumne Peak in
the distance.
Before long, however, the climbing is a serious kick in the
teeth; over the next mile, a series of super-technical switchbacks lift you
more than 1000 vertical feet; in both directions, this is definitely the most
challenging part of the hike.
After the switchbacks, the trail levels off at a crossroads
at nearly 9100’. From here, you have the
option of turning towards an area called Sunrise Lakes …
… or giving some of your elevation back to follow the trail
downward on the path to Clouds Rest.
After descending for about a half-mile, the trail levels off
and meanders through a pleasant High Sierra valley, complete with a tranquil
little mountain pond …
… but soon enough, the trail turns upward again for the last
2-mile stretch to the summit.
The interesting thing about hiking to Clouds Rest is that for
the vast majority of your time on the trail, you can’t really see your
destination. Even when you finally glimpse it, it’s little more than a sliver rising above the tree line.
On the other hand, the views of nearby peaks get better and
better, such as this one of Mount Clark to the south.
Continuing upward, the trees get a bit thinner …
… and the views get a bit more amazing. If you look closely, our starting point of
Tenaya Lake is a blue dot at right-center in the photo above.
A few hundred feet below the summit, there’s one last level stretch to catch your breath a bit …
… before venturing up the final foot path to the top of
Clouds Rest. The final ridge is one of
those mind over matter things; it’s roughly as wide as a single-lane road,
which would normally be plenty of space to maneuver …
… if it weren’t for the fact that the ridge is completely
exposed on both sides, as this view from the top illustrates.
In other words, if you have issues with heights, this might
not be the place for you. My son wasn’t
quite as skittish on this climb as he was on the Half Dome cables, but on more
than a few occasions he dropped into a crab walk for the reassurance of two
more points of contact on the rock.
Clouds Rest has something of a false summit – and after
cresting the first one, a very familiar sight emerges. Or as my son discovered, Hey – that’s Half
Dome down there! Notice that he wasn’t
excited enough to completely let go of the rock, however.
At that point, it’s just a short scramble to the true summit
of Clouds Rest, where even more spectacular sights awaited us.
The most compelling one, of course, is looking down into the
entire Yosemite Valley, with its massive granite icons appearing as if
in miniature from our lofty vantage point.
However, the views were almost equally impressive in all directions,
such as this one to the south …
… or this one to the east …
… or this one to the north, where it seemed like an ideal spot to have a little bit of fun. Boom
laka-laka-laka.
The two of us spent about 45 minutes alone on top of the
rock, snacking on trail mix (and feeding some local fauna) and wondering if
there was anyplace else with a view as awesome as this one. Between the two of us, we couldn’t come up
with many possibilities. Even though
they’re not especially instructional, these are usually my favorite kinds of
conversations with my son.
However, we still had half of our hiking to go, and the day
was getting warm, so we took in one last glance of the iconic mountain behind us
…
… and made our way back down the narrow ridge in front of
us. To this point, we hadn’t seen a
single soul on the trail – but after we descended from the summit, we finally
started encountering hikers coming up behind us.
And then a funny thing happened – or as I told my son, Hey,
I know this girl!
It was
Catra, a sweet-as-pie and tough-as-nails (and honestly,
a pretty easy to spot) ultrarunner who was getting in some last minute
preparation for Western States this weekend.
Seriously. She was making great
time, but paused for long enough to take a picture before powering her way to
the top.
Meanwhile, my son and I made our way back down the hill, plodding
through steep switchbacks, sweltering heat, and the increasing leg soreness of
a long day, until finally …
… we returned to our starting point at Tenaya Lake. Speaking of which: can you think of anything
more inviting at the end of a long, hot day on the trail than plunging into a
beautiful alpine lake?
Me neither. One thing
about these mountain bathtubs, though: the faucet’s always stuck on cold.
After a few minutes of rinsing, all that was left to do was dry
off on a nearby rock before climbing into the car to head home. A few miles down the road, we found a cool
spot to pull over and see exactly where we had been …
… and to appreciate just how high we had gone. Perhaps the most telling thing I can say about
Yosemite is that every time my son and I come here, I wonder if our experience
will be as impressive or rewarding as the time before – and every single time,
Yosemite delivers.
*
Sly and the Family Stone, “I Want to Take You Higher” (click
to play):
*See other photo tours under tab at top of page.
Get updates as soon as they're posted! Click here to subscribe to Running and Rambling.
Check out the Running Life book for a collection of our most popular columns.
Read more...